From Pendeen to Portheras Cove…..

October 21, 2020 / freedombird / Leave a comment

A pretty miserable day by anyone’s standards but needs must and all that. To be fair the rain had more or less stopped but visibility was still pretty awful as we drove and parked up in Pendeen. From the village we took the lighthouse road part way before cutting across farmland down to the coastal path. The sea still looks pretty majestic even shrouded with low lying grey cloud.

Very soon we were rewarded with a glimpse of the beautiful sandy Portheras Cove.

Wow, I certainly wasn’t expecting this. Access is the only possible from the coastal path with a reasonable walk from any possible car parking, probably at least a mile. The last bit was a scramble over rocks so doable for most and may I add, well worth the effort.

We almost had the beach to ourselves, just one other couple (enjoying a swim!). So at the far end Poppydog was given her freedom.

She just loves to splash around in rock pools and skitter over the larger rocks in pursuit of something or anything, in this case she had to make do with seaweed as I had left her ball behind.

After a while as a few more folk were arriving, we decided to make our way back up off the beach and follow the coastal path back to take a look at Pendeen Lighthouse.

Before getting there, out of curiosity we followed a footpath down Boat Cove (not labelled on the map but the coastal path waymarker indicated it as such). What a little gem – another beautiful cove – very small but as long as you don’t have to share it ideal!

We meandered back onto the coastal path and soon arrived at the Lighthouse.

From here we headed inland taking a look along the coast towards Cape Cornwall – this is Tin Mining country (or was) with both Geevor and Levant Mines in the distance.

The weather is closing in again on us fast, so we step up our pace along the Lighthouse road which after a mile or so takes us back to the car. A shortish 4 mile walk today and just in time as the heavens opened as we reached the van.

Penberth and Lamorna Cove….

October 20, 2020 / freedombird / Leave a comment

A very wild night and through most of the day but a bit of sun around and dry.

Note to self don’t try to put the pop top roof down in high winds with the side door open! You need two pairs of hands and as per, Poppydog is no help – as fast as I was pulling the sides in whilst holding the roof down (actually swinging off it at times) the wind was blowing the sides back out! I did eventually manage to do it and then about 5 minutes later realised what an idiot!! Still we live and learn.

Initially we drove and parked up in Treen, planning a fairly long walk along the coastal path to Lamorna Cove, but on looking again at the map with no real circular route back, I realised this was possibly a tad ambitious. Instead we wandered down across farmland to Penberth Cove.

A completely stony or should I say rocky, as not even suitable for Poppydog to run around on, cove at the bottom of a sleepy hollow valley. The footpath disappearing up the steep cliff to our left did not endear me to the idea of progressing any further along the coastal path.

Instead we wandered up the valley. Nicely sheltered from the wind with a vibrant stream running through and a few houses (for once they looked to be homes as opposed to holiday lets) nestling in rather exotic gardens, it was a very pleasant walk. We passed this rather impressively decorated tree adorned with a multitude of different shaped, size and colour of fisherman’s buoy.

So after barely a couple of miles we are back at the van, next stop the Merry Maidens….

Yup a pretty impressive standing circle. From here a string of footpaths across farmland eventually leads us down into Lamorna – another leafy valley. We had to deal with a couple of path closures which prevented us from going via Tater-du Lighthouse (another day maybe?) but eventually made our way down the steep incline into Lamorna.

The sea was pretty rough but a nice bit of sand was still exposed inside the harbour wall, though no longer in the weak sunshine.

We enjoyed the solitude with the crashing waves our only soundtrack, as there was hardly a soul about.

Soon enough, with a last look back, it was time for us to begin the gentler but quite long route back up to where we had left the van, under the watchful eye of the Merry Maidens.

I’m glad we did this in two hits as we still managed to cover 7 miles and we are ready for food and putting our feet up!

Back to Nanjizal and along the coast to Porthgwarra….

October 18, 2020 / freedombird / 2 Comments

Some cloud around but still plenty of sunshine. Today we have a little gap in our journey along the coastal path to fill, so we ventured off in the van and found a handy lay-by on the Porthgwarra road. There is actually a good sized car park down in Porthgwarra but the access road is long and very narrow and I decided not to risk it in the van. Quite by chance I had ended up parking right by the entrance to the footpath which took us over farmland and eventually down to Nanjizal – ideal.

We then clambered up the steps to the top of the cliff heading south. The higher we got the more stunning this bay looked with a fabulous white sand bank visible and in some places just breaking the low tide. the white buildings at Land’s End just visible on the skyline.

Once we had got our breath back the path levelled out following the rock strewn cliff tops for a couple of miles. The sun was shining and the sea our turquoise ever present companion – all is well.

Soon in the distance we could see the Lookout Station on Gwennap Head, tucked away beyond which, according to Mr OS (Ordnance Survey App), sits Porthgwarra.

We rounded the headland passing the two way marks (navigational) wandering how fab it would be to walk this walk when the heather is in bloom – when is that?

The path here becomes quite narrow and steep as we gradually wended our way down into Porthgwarra – with a little sneak preview over the cliff edge….

Oh my word, what a fabulous little cove – the only thing is you want it all to yourself, well I do anyway!

How fab is this little archway as an alternative access to the beach, probably safer too as the slip was very steep.

As well as the car park there is a decent little cafe garden, though I chose to enjoy my pasty on the beach whilst Poppydog had her daily wallow.

To think I was in two minds whether to come here – what an absolute gem and beauty of a 6 mile circular walk.

PS although the walk back up to the van was long and steep and we had to keep squidging up to the hedge to let cars past, I’m glad I didn’t take the van right down. It is doable but I don’t want to scratch my lovely new paintwork!

From Sennen around Land’s End to Nanjizal…..

October 16, 2020 / freedombird / Leave a comment

A little bit more cloud around today but still a lovely day for a walk. We parked the van at the top of Sennen in a lay-by and wandered down onto the beach – it really is as beautiful as it looks….

The village, though now sprawling way up the hill with some rather fabulous glass studded houses is still essentially a cluster of higgledy piggledy small whitewashed terraced cottages, though sadly many of them now appear to be holiday lets. The small sandy harbour behind the newish Lifeboat Station is testament to a small thriving fishing fleet.

We then began to climb up out of the village, along the coastal path towards Land’s End.

Up on the top the footpath is quite wide and certainly well used, though at this time of year you can still enjoy the feeling of being the only soul out there and of course the coastline here is ruggedly beautiful.

As ever Land’s End itself was milling with people so we didn’t linger, just long enough to watch a pod of dolphins dancing around the bay (not close enough to take a decent photo) and to take this photo to prove we have been!

And then moved along to enjoy the spectacular Armed Knight natural arch with Longships Lighthouse in the distance.

Poppydog for once is in the right place at the right time!

Much quieter now the coastal path continues to meander along the cliff top.

After a mile or so and around another headland we get our first distant glimpse of Nanjizal or Mill Bay….

Too pretty to miss…

A series of caves in the making….

The tide is rapidly coming in but you can still imagine what this stunning cove would be like on a hot summers day with the tide out – miles from anywhere but probably rarely empty.

Well worth the walk….

From here we followed a steep path up out of the valley and a series of farmland footpaths back to where we had left the van in Sennen a good 7 mile circular walk.

And a cheeky poser shot in Sennen upper car park on our way back to site.

A fouro (one more than a trio!!) of stunning beaches…

October 15, 2020 / freedombird / Leave a comment

Another lovely sunny day, a bit more cloud about but less breeze so all in all a win. Today we made our way to Treen where there is a parking field (£2 all day), you can also wild camp in there with fab sea views, not sure of charge though, a couple of fields away from the cliff top so definite sea views and a busy looking pub in the village a short amble down the hill.

Today though, we take the footpath to Logan Rock a big lump of rock amidst beautiful turquoise seas.

From here we are heading west towards Land’s End along Treen cliffs and soon have a fabulous birds eye view of this stunning beach….

What an absolute beauty even as the tide is quickly on it’s way in. Beach access is quite tricky with a very steep scramble down and so we continued our way along the coastal path. This stretch of the path is quite narrow but I found that everyone I met was considerate and socially distanced aware, not that it was any hardship to find a little gap and admire the view to allow others to pass safely.

A bit further along we encountered this pyramid demarking the original end of the transatlantic cable, more information about which is available in the Telegraph Museum a bit further along in Porthcurno.

Soon we had our first glimpse of Green Bay and Porthcurno beach and the Minnack Theatre beyond….

Then a closer look down onto Green Bay, accessible at low tides from Porthcurno or via a very steep scramble from above.

The footpath continues down onto Porthcurno beach, which as per was quite busy though the best views are from the ascent towards the Minack Theatre.

The stony steps up to the Minack Theatre are not for the faint hearted but are one of the few sets of steps that it is probably better to be going up than down, as you are less aware of the sheer drops you are climbing up!! Please note there is an easier walk up the lane if you don’t fancy it!

I have a great memory of sitting on these steps with a friend waiting for her husband who was running in the Classic Quarter Race from The Lizard to Land’s End, a gruelling 44 miles along the coastal path. We assumed we would see him and other runners ascend down the other side and have plenty of time to meet him at the car with water and snacks – hah not so he was by this point the front runner by some distance and suddenly just appeared up the steps – it was then our turn to run back to the car to get his water, so as not to delay his run. I’m pleased to say he still won and indeed broke the course record which he held onto for quite a few years – madness!

We continued along the coastal path to our final stop Porthchapel Cove at St Levan another stunning sandy beach which was fast disappearing under the incoming tide.

Not confident of our ability to safely get down and more importantly back up from this beach we settled midway down, enjoying the sun, solitude and view.

And Poppydog enjoyed a good wallow in amongst the rocks of the stream….

From here we made our way past St Levan’s Well into the little hamlet and back to Treen via a network of inland footpaths, oh yes and via this Anderson Shelter at the Porthcurno Museum, looking all autumnal …

A stunning 6 mile circular route and four more beaches to add to our list (some 850 so far!).

Freedom Bird

Living the dream by exploring the beautiful beaches around Britain

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