A life less complicated….

Having started an epic journey around the coast of Britain in October 2017 – with a four year gap including Covid and caring for my elderly father – Tilly (my Toy Poodle) and I (Clare a 60 something female with a severe case of Wanderlust) are continuing to travel in our Bailey Endeavour B62 campervan, predominantly within eyeshot of the sea around both the Uk and Europe.

Returning from an amazing journey through the heart of Western Europe we rounded off our trip with a sunny (and as it turned out – very warm) tour around the South East Coastline of Kent, West Sussex and little of East Sussex and the Isle of Wight and headed home to Cornwall to re-connect with friends and family for the month of August, now in September it is time to head off again….

We have now visited some 1555 beaches around the coast of Britain and 638 in Europe with still plenty more to see..

If you would like to see our earlier journeys around the UK, they have loosely been grouped together by location and you can find the links below.

NB some of the links below are not yet working properly as it is a work in progress….

Beach Guides:

To catch up with our earlier adventures in:

  1. North coast of Cornwall from 5th October 2017 to 11th February 2018 –   Freedombird in Cornwall
  2. Back in Cornwall at various times to complete the coastline – Freedombird back in Cornwall
  3. North coast of Devon from 11th February to 19th March 2018 – Freedombird in North Devon
  4. Somerset from 19th March to 29th April 2018 – Freedombird in Somerset
  5. South Wales coast from 29th April to 14th August 2018 – Freedombird in South Wales
  6. West and North Wales coast from 14th August to 21st October 2018 – Freedombird in West and North Wales
  7. North West England from 21st October to 26th November 2018 and 27th January to 4th February 2019 – Freedombird in North West England
  8. Cumbria from 27th January to 5th April 2019 – Freedombird in Cumbria
  9. South Coast of Scotland from 5th April to 25th May 2019 – Freedombird on the South Coast of Scotland
  10. West Coast of Southern Scotland from 26th May to 17th July 2019 – Freedombird on the West Coast of Southern Scotland
  11. Edinburgh and surrounding area from 18th July to 30th July 2019 – Freedombird in Edinburgh and surrounding beaches
  12. East Coast of Southern Scotland from 28th July to 15th September 2019 – Freedombird on the East Coast of Southern Scotland
  13. North East England from 12th September to 20th November 2019 – Freedombird in the North East of England
  14. Yorkshire from 14th January to 22nd February 2020 – Fredombird in Yorkshire
  15. Lincolnshire from 23rd February to 13th March 2020 – Freedombird in Lincolnshire
  16. Norfolk and Suffolk from 15th to 24th March 2020 and 28th June to 18th July 2025 – Freedombird in Norfolk and Suffolk
  17. Inland England on various dates travelling through – Freedombird in inland England
  18. West Coast of Northern Scotland Part 1 from 11th September to 14th October 2024 – Freedombird on the West Coast of Northern Scotland Part 1
  19. North Coast of Scotland and the Orkneys from 15th to 27th October 2024 – Freedombird on the North Coast of Scotland and the Orkneys
  20. East Coast of Northern Scotland Part 1 from 28th October to 15th November 2024 – Freedombird on the East Coast of Northern Scotland Part 1
  21. In the Highlands of Scotland from 15th to 26th November 2024 and 10th to 21st June 2025 – Freedombird in the Highlands
  22. West Coast of Northern Scotland Part 2 from 8th to 17th April and 31st May to 5th June 2025 – Freedombird on the West Coast of Northern Scotland Part 2
  23. Outer Hebrides Part 1 from 22nd April to 12th May 2025 – Freedombird in the Outer Hebrides Part 1
  24. Outer Hebrides Part 2 from 10th May to 30th May 2025 – Freedombird in the Outer Hebrides Part 2
  25. East Coast of Northern Scotland Part 2 from 15th to 18th June 2025 – Freedombird on the East Coast of Northern Scotland Part 2
  26. North and West Coast of France from 11th September to 7th December 2025 – Freedombird on the North and West Coast of France
  27. Travelling down through the heart of Western Europe from 4th March to 27th April – Freedombird in Europe Spring 2026 Part 1
  28. Continuing our journey through Europe from 28th April to 8th June 2026 – Freedombird in Europe Spring 2026 Part 2
  29. South East Coast of England from June 9th to July 8th 2026 – Freedombird in South East England

Wednesday 4th November 2026 – moving across to the East Coast of Italy….

Time to move on again, the weather remains a little overcast and chilly (well sub 20 degrees!). Having decided not to take a route around the coast of the spur (the roads are a little hit and miss), we head inland and cut off the corner. Now this was turned out to be the weirdest journey I have ever travelled and not in a good way. As soon as we got on the SS16 which is one of those unmarked 3 lane affairs where regardless of the signs in place prohibiting overtaking in places, people do anyway using ‘Death Alley’ the ‘middle’ lane, we were struck by the mountains of rubbish again in the laybys, especially bearing in mind that this road is about as rural as it gets.

Not that I have studied it in detail but the rubbish largely seems to consist of plastics and more disturbingly glass bottles, which seems odd until you discover that in southern Italy particularly the recycling rules have become notably stricter with any kind of contamination is resulting in collections being refused. Add to that the roadside recycling bins have also been removed makes this roadside dumping a little more understandable – not excusable but…. A prime example of change not being welcomed or embraced. However I do believe that certainly for me the level of rubbish and apparent disregard or care for the environment will have a knock on effect on the tourist industry and economy. I for one will not return to Italy.

That aside the next thing that occurred is that I passed a couple of laybys with a random kitchen chair in it, one with what looked like a coat and an umbrella on it and then a little further on, one with a woman sat on the chair – at first I thought that perhaps she was waiting for a lift or a bus. A little further on I passed a woman being dropped off in a layby and when she turned around her coat was open revealing well not a lot underneath – it then began to dawn on me what I was witnessing! In total on that 30-40 mile stretch of rural road I counted 8 separate occasions – either unoccupied or occupied chairs in laybys or junctions with rural lanes – googling it later these ‘Umbrella Girls’ are often victims of human trafficking. To say I am shocked is an understatement, to say I felt very uneasy driving along that road as realisation kicked in is putting it mildly and getting confirmation off google later when I was parked up (safely and well off that road) for the evening filled me with horror – what if I had broken down and needed to pull in? – what a life some people have! That I’m afraid has totally finished me for Italy.

All that aside we were relieved to get parked up at our campsite for the night at Torre Murcchia on the east coast, just before Pescara. A small grassy site, well more owners spacious garden than site, perched on a hill above the sea….

It was rather late in the afternoon so we headed straight out for a much needed spot of fresh air and walk down a steepish hill to the beach – Spiaggia Lido Riccio….

We enjoyed a lovely walk the full length of the beach which we pretty much had to ourselves, just a passing Heron….

A beautiful pinkish glow over the horizon….

We spent a very peaceful evening (we are the only van on site) planning or exit from Italy.

Today’s stats:

  • Miles driven – 139
  • Miles walked – 5
  • Beaches – 1
  • Groceries – £37.46
  • O/N – £16.68

Tuesday 3rd November 2026 – a walk along the beach north from Lido Salpi….

Yesterday was a bit of a right off as we had strongish winds and rain pretty much all day. Mostly we stayed in the warmth of the van with occasional forays out onto the beach for Tilly to have a bit of a run about and for us to get a bit of fresh air….

Today the worst of the weather has blown through and we enjoyed a walk along the beach from the site, heading southwards this time. Here too the coast is backed mostly by scrubland with the odd holiday settlement in the distance so not particularly interesting or scenic but some lovely grey clouds and the odd glimmer of sunshine to enjoy the far reaching coastal views….

I never tire of looking at the sea, walking along a beach with just the sound of the waves. After a couple of miles we got as far as we could along Spiaggia degli Sciali and for once the sun was shining over the Gargano National Park (spur of Italys boot) and you could make out the hilltop villages….

Unfortunately the winds and rough seas of yesterday have brought a lot of debris and plastic waste up onto the tideline which I guess will sit here until the next high seas, but we have enjoyed our walk after being cooped up most of yesterday….

Yesterday’s stats:

  • Miles walked – 1!!!
  • Beaches – 1
  • O/N – £14.00

Today’s stats:

  • Miles walked – 5
  • Beaches – 2
  • O/N – £6.69

Sunday 1st November 2026 – a walk along the beach northwards…

The weather is still unsettled but after lunch we set of northwards along the beach heading towards Manfredonia. There is a brisk breeze blowing and a bit chillier than it has been but for the most part the sun was shining….

Beyond the campsite beach the beach is quite narrow but as the sea isn’t too choppy Tilly is happy trotting along the edge of the beach and into the scrubland that backs the beach. There is quite a bit of debris from the scrubland or wetlands and of course rubbish though here I would say it is sea debris and every now and again she would come hopping over to get a stickle seed removed from here paw. This section is Lido Romagna with the Gargano National Park (the spur of Italy’s Boot) as a back drop….

After a couple of miles a river breaks our path way before we get to Manfredonia….

We back track a bit and follow a path that leads us inland to a sort of holiday village as the map shows a area of water on the other side of the main road and hopeful of spotting more flamingos we try to track it down. Unfortunately it is sky high with grasses and reeds and if there is any actual water we couldn’t find it. In the end we give up and make our way to the main road to walk back to site.

The road though not busy and with a 50km speed restriction is quite straight and as a consequence the cars were flying along, which didn’t make for very pleasant walking. We did try to get back on the beach via another holiday village which appeared open as there were cars and clearly occupied apartments. It was probably one of the grimmest places I’ve ever happened upon and just a little creepy with dogs barking at us from every gateway and not a soul in sight. The worst of it was that access to the beach once we got there was completely gated off and padlocked so we once again had to retrace our steps setting all the dogs off again, to get back out!

Well at least we got out and half the walk was very enjoyable if not madly scenic.

Today’s stats:

  • Miles walked – 7
  • Beaches – 1
  • O/N – £14.00

Saturday 31st October 2026 – a relaxed day at Lido Salpi….

After a hectic few days we are having a bit of a relaxed one today and not going far, especially apt as showers are forecast through the day….

A wander around the site, which seems to mostly german vans or should I say buses as they are nearly all over 7.5m in length. Many of them look to be here for a while as they are either towing cars or trailers and are travelling with all the gear! Strange choice really as the site is about 7 miles from the nearest village / town but it does have all the services (basic), a lovely beach and is cheap!

The electrics are rather interesting….

We also spent quite a bit of time on the beach without venturing too far as there were some rather ominous clouds in the distance and indeed we are due some stormy weather over the next few days….

Today’s stats:

  • Miles walked – 3
  • Beaches – 1
  • O/N – £14.00

Friday 30th October 2026 – continuing our journey north up the east coast via Trani….

Slightly cloudy but still reasonably warm as we juggle our way out of Bari through road closures and very confusing road junctions but once clear we make good time and are soon parked up oln the outskirts of Trani. As it turns out we are parked a short distance from the local refuse centre and there is a continuous stream of vehicles arriving to dump there household waste – proof that there is an alternative to dumping it in laybys! It wasn’t the most fragrant place to park but as we have no intention of spending anytime in the van it seems as safe a place as any to park.

We quickly pass by the tip and make our way through the by now usual myriad of grubby back streets until we turn a corner and are confronted with this beautifully preserved Castello di Trani on the sea front….

Across a building site as it appears that much work is going on to create a promenade along the sea front lies the again immaculate Cattedrale di Trani – these buildings are such a contrast to the neighbourhood we have just walked through….

The fort across the harbour appears also to have had a recent face lift with works ongoing at Sant Antonio Church….

Unlike many of the other towns we have wandered around the main hub of Trani seems to be around the busy fishing harbour with fishermen selling their ware literally off the boats….

Now I am not a fishy person so most of what they were selling is beyond me but there were several buckets of octopus which certainly didn’t make me want to try it!

Only a small town we did wander back through the back streets around the harbour which were certainly a lot more appealing than they way we had walked in….

We collected the van and did a little top up of groceries before leaving Trani, as the site we are headed for is a distance from any form of civilisation.

From Margherita di Savoia we drove along the thin strip of land, separating the sea from the salt basins and wetlands, where I was delighted to spot a flock of mulitcoloured flamingos grazing along the wetlands. Unfortunately there was nowhere safe to pullover and stop to watch them for a while.

Another 20 miles or so up the road we arrived at our campsite for the next few days as we are hoping to hide from the worst of the weather that seems to be stuck over the middle section of Italy at the moment – you could say that Autumn has arrived!….

The electrical system here looks a little sketchy….

But the beach at Lido Salpi just 50m from our pitch more than makes up for that….

Today’s stats:

  • Miles driven – 72
  • Miles walked – 5
  • Beaches – 1
  • Fuel – £85.70
  • Groceries – £18.48
  • O/N – £14.00