Where to go on this beautiful sunny Saturday and avoid the crowds? In the end we headed over towards St Keverne, taking a right at Zoar Garage as we thought we would give Lankidden (a delightful sandy cove just beyond Kennack which is usually quiet as accessibility is tough, unless accessed from the sea!) a go.
However we missed the turning (it is all single track lanes here with few opportunities to turn around) and ended up at the tiny hamlet of Treleaver. Here there was parking for maybe half a dozen cars and a farm track leading down to the coastal path, just north of Beagles Point. With breathtaking views across turquoise calm seas looking towards Bass Point (the Lizard).
Still roughly aiming for Lankidden, we followed the path southwards down a steep craggy valley, across a little footbridge and back up the other side onto Baggy Point. The valley provides a safe area for Poppydog to have a bit of off lead time and a good rummage through the undergrowth. Either side of the path is strewn with pretty wildflowers and heathers in all shades of pinks and purples. The sheer ruggedness adds its own beauty to this landscape, all the better for not being able to see another sole.
Beyond Beagles Point a couple of sandy coves separated by a large rocky outcrop, come into view….
The footpath begins a steep descent down to the coves and we are able to scramble across the rocks only to find a wide band of water still separates us from the lovely white sandy on Downas Cove.
It doesn’t deter Poppydog who is soon swimming round and round, cooling down in this pool. Not to be left out, I remove my boots and socks and attempt to wade across. I say attempt as it is quite deep – a metre or so at its deepest. All was good until I put my foot on a cleverly disguised weed covered rock and then whoosh – I am practically up to my neck in the pool and sat on the sandy bottom!!!
Ah well, I needed to cool down… However as I am now soaked through (walking boots and all) any idea of continuing our walk is out of the question – guess we’ll have to make do with enjoying this little cove all to ourselves for a while longer as I try to drip dry a bit!!
A beautiful afternoon as we head off towards St Keverne and take advantage of Roskilly’s car park, just on the outskirts. We follow the leafy lanes towards Dean’s Quarry and wander down the steep steps to Polcries.
The coastal path from here to Coverack sits atop a craggy and stony shoreline backed by grassy and wooded heathland. It is sometimes used for grazing cattle but we could see them ahead (towards Coverack) so opted to have a potter along the stony foreshore heading north instead.
When we have attempted this walk in the past the coastal path has been closed and unsafe so it was great to see that it has been repaired and opened up again and there is now a wide gravelled path running shoreside of the quarry (not sure if it still a working one). We didn’t venture down onto the first – Quarry Beach – as there was a lone paddle boarder having a snooze, who probably would not have been amused by Poppydog’s antics….
Instead we continued along the path a short distance to Godrevy Cove – fine stretch of sand and pebble beach.
There were a few families dotted around on this beach so Poppydog has to stay in the lead, though still able to enjoy a run about…
And of course a refreshing dunk in the sea…
At the end of Godrevy Cove a few rocky outcrops separated it from Leggan Cove which was fortunately empty so Poppydog could have her freedom.
Giving me a moment or three to enjoy the warm sunshine, a paddle and the view.
Returning to Godrevy Cove we took the footpath up to Rosenithon and a leisurely walk back along the lanes to the car.
A lovely sunny day with a welcoming cooling breeze as we wandered along inland from Lizard village across Kynance Downs. This stretch is mostly along the cliff tops affording spectacular views down onto Kynance….
and then Pentreath….
Back when we first moved here (2005) this was our go to beach, as it is off the beaten track, quite tricky to get down onto and with no facilities it was only really ever used by a few locals and with the tides out the lovely long stretch of greyish sand was never remotely busy. However winter storms a few years later put paid to anything resembling safe access and now apart from the odd brave surfer most of us just gaze down upon it with longing!
A bit closer to Lizard lies Caerthillian Cove a mostly rocky little inlet, hardly ever enjoyed by anyone (apart from from above) and unbeknownst to most, at low tide you can sneak around the corner onto the lush sands of Pentreath. That is to say you used to be able to and I shall certainly give it a go next time the sun is up and the tides are right and report back.
For today however we scrambled down and cooled off in the abundant rock pools and marvelled at the crashing waves beyond.
It never ceases to amaze me the difference between the invariably choppy West Coast and the usual calmness of the East Coast, yet here, they are only a few miles apart – knowing this and imagining the turbulence where east meets west you would never consider it a good idea to swim off Lizard Point!
We ended this shortish 3 mile circuit back on the village green (Lizard) where we had left the car – barely 2 miles from home but not a pleasurable walk along the main Lizard – Helston road.
Well we have made the decision to stay put for a while for several reasons…
However, our master plan (for the moment) is to cover the coast from Falmouth around to Penzance (ish) from here, a distance of some 61 miles along the coastal path. Then, in September, we plan to complete the rest of Cornwall, from Penzance to St Agnes (where we set off from, back in October 17) and from Falmouth along the south coast to Plymouth.
This stage of our journey will be a bit sporadic, so please don’t expect a perfect geographical circuit from Falmouth to Penzance, or a daily blog, as we will meander about a bit depending on our mood, the weather, the tides and dodging hotspots to avoid visiting crowds. Let’s see how we get on….
- We live in a beautiful part of the world
- Though we have explored this area quite a bit, there are still plenty of chunks of the coastal path and I’m sure the odd beach on the way that we haven’t visited
- It isn’t necessary for us to take up valuable space on a Cornish campsite to explore
- This is not over yet so why make things more risky than we have to?
- We are still living our dream….
The weather is still holding strong with only the occasional damp, mizzly day and we enjoyed the slight relaxing of the ‘rules’ by venturing a few miles in the car to enjoy our beautiful coastline and meet up with friends for socially distanced dog walks.
Our favourite go to place is the oft deserted second beach at Kennack Sands where Poppydog and her two pals (well not pals exactly as she is way too competitive to have any real doggy pals) Elsie and Eddie, who she happily ignores, can run about to their little hearts content….
We enjoyed a couple of late afternoon jaunts down to Kynance to catch a few moments before the madness of summer or Super Saturday arrives and we have to share this stunning cove with the rest of the world! In reality we don’t actually share Kynance, we just hand it over until September!!
On the home front, we actually cracked on and worked our way through the list (well most of it!), which involved decorating the chalet throughout, cleaning the caravan from top to toe and de-sanding the car leading us nicely into Phase 3….