Wednesday 4th November 2026 – moving across to the East Coast of Italy….

Time to move on again, the weather remains a little overcast and chilly (well sub 20 degrees!). Having decided not to take a route around the coast of the spur (the roads are a little hit and miss), we head inland and cut off the corner. Now this was turned out to be the weirdest journey I have ever travelled and not in a good way. As soon as we got on the SS16 which is one of those unmarked 3 lane affairs where regardless of the signs in place prohibiting overtaking in places, people do anyway using ‘Death Alley’ the ‘middle’ lane, we were struck by the mountains of rubbish again in the laybys, especially bearing in mind that this road is about as rural as it gets.

Not that I have studied it in detail but the rubbish largely seems to consist of plastics and more disturbingly glass bottles, which seems odd until you discover that in southern Italy particularly the recycling rules have become notably stricter with any kind of contamination is resulting in collections being refused. Add to that the roadside recycling bins have also been removed makes this roadside dumping a little more understandable – not excusable but…. A prime example of change not being welcomed or embraced. However I do believe that certainly for me the level of rubbish and apparent disregard or care for the environment will have a knock on effect on the tourist industry and economy. I for one will not return to Italy.

That aside the next thing that occurred is that I passed a couple of laybys with a random kitchen chair in it, one with what looked like a coat and an umbrella on it and then a little further on, one with a woman sat on the chair – at first I thought that perhaps she was waiting for a lift or a bus. A little further on I passed a woman being dropped off in a layby and when she turned around her coat was open revealing well not a lot underneath – it then began to dawn on me what I was witnessing! In total on that 30-40 mile stretch of rural road I counted 8 separate occasions – either unoccupied or occupied chairs in laybys or junctions with rural lanes – googling it later these ‘Umbrella Girls’ are often victims of human trafficking. To say I am shocked is an understatement, to say I felt very uneasy driving along that road as realisation kicked in is putting it mildly and getting confirmation off google later when I was parked up (safely and well off that road) for the evening filled me with horror – what if I had broken down and needed to pull in? – what a life some people have! That I’m afraid has totally finished me for Italy.

All that aside we were relieved to get parked up at our campsite for the night at Torre Murcchia on the east coast, just before Pescara. A small grassy site, well more owners spacious garden than site, perched on a hill above the sea….

It was rather late in the afternoon so we headed straight out for a much needed spot of fresh air and walk down a steepish hill to the beach – Spiaggia Lido Riccio….

We enjoyed a lovely walk the full length of the beach which we pretty much had to ourselves, just a passing Heron….

A beautiful pinkish glow over the horizon….

We spent a very peaceful evening (we are the only van on site) planning or exit from Italy.

Today’s stats:

  • Miles driven – 139
  • Miles walked – 5
  • Beaches – 1
  • Groceries – £37.46
  • O/N – £16.68

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