Leaving the coast again, this time we are heading inland to the unusual city of Matera. The journey is uneventful but noticeably the landscape changed from lush tree filled hilly terrain about two thirds of the way to arid hilly scrubland with hilltop villages scattered in the distance as indeed is Matera.
We parked up in Camper Matera, an Aire rather than a campsite but with probably the warmest welcome we have received anywhere in Italy and were presented with a fresh loaf of locally made sourdough bread – Pani di Matera. The outer crust was like a brick and with the cost of dentistry I didn’t risk it but the fleshy inner was delicious and satisfied an itch. The overnight cost also included a return shuttle to the centre of Matera and I booked us onto the next available trip later in the afternoon.
The short journey was somewhat entertaining as the driver (I assumed to be the owners father) didn’t speak a word of English but proceeded to chat to me (the only passenger) the whole journey, at one point we were pulled over by the local police for what I gathered to be some vehicle issue but my driver seemed to think it was something and nothing and appeared to be quite dismissive of the very serious policeman’s issues. Arriving in one piece the driver waved me roughly in the direction of the centre and disappeared back into the traffic! Hopefully to be seen again at the agreed pick up time.
Only a few minutes walk took us into the centre of the more modern part of town, with its beautiful ornate buildings and narrow pedestrianised bar and shop lined streets….
Just beyond these honey toned streets lie the main attraction the Sassi area of rock carved cave dwellings dating back to Palaeolithic times (9000 years ago) and considered to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world. It almost didn’t survive the 1950’s when poverty, malaria and lack of electricity or running water caused the Italian government to call it the ‘shame of Italy’ and rehouse it’s population by extending the city beyond the above historic area. However revitalisation started to improve the area and it was given UNESCO World Heritage status in 1993 and is now a major attraction with many properties being lived in or serving as bars / restaurants and shops….
The city is carved into the side of La Gravine gorge with many natural and man made caves and shelters visible on the other side of the gorge in the untamed Parco Della Murgia Materano….
Unlike the 150 rock cut cave churches that are dotted around the Sassi including Santa Maria de Idris carved into Monterrone the tallest limestone spur topped by the Crucifix the main Cathedral Basilica Di Matera was constructed as a focal point of the city in the 1200’s and appears to almost glow in the warm sunshine, long after the rest of the city is shrouded in shade….
We enjoyed the golden hour up by the Cathedral along with many others, finding our own little carved ledge to sit upon and bask, serenaded by a well played acoustic guitar, hoping for a spectacular sunset, instead we were treated to a soothing golden glow….
There were several other bronze ‘Tree of Life’ sculptures by Andrea Roggi that we had spotted around the new ‘Old Town’….
As the light faded and turned from dusk to night, the Sassi continued to shine – 9000 years old and proud….
As we returned to our meeting point and needed to kill a bit of time we wandered into one of the many little vending machine alcoves that are dotted around cities in Italy and were rather surprised to see gelatos for sale – how random….
A fabulous afternoon and what an interesting find.
Today’s stats:
- Miles driven – 119
- Miles walked – 7
- O/N – £16.90
