A fouro (one more than a trio!!) of stunning beaches…

Another lovely sunny day, a bit more cloud about but less breeze so all in all a win. Today we made our way to Treen where there is a parking field (£2 all day), you can also wild camp in there with fab sea views, not sure of charge though, a couple of fields away from the cliff top so definite sea views and a busy looking pub in the village a short amble down the hill.

Today though, we take the footpath to Logan Rock a big lump of rock amidst beautiful turquoise seas.

Logan Rock

From here we are heading west towards Land’s End along Treen cliffs and soon have a fabulous birds eye view of this stunning beach….

Pedn Vounder Cove

What an absolute beauty even as the tide is quickly on it’s way in. Beach access is quite tricky with a very steep scramble down and so we continued our way along the coastal path. This stretch of the path is quite narrow but I found that everyone I met was considerate and socially distanced aware, not that it was any hardship to find a little gap and admire the view to allow others to pass safely.

A bit further along we encountered this pyramid demarking the original end of the transatlantic cable, more information about which is available in the Telegraph Museum a bit further along in Porthcurno.

Soon we had our first glimpse of Green Bay and Porthcurno beach and the Minnack Theatre beyond….

Then a closer look down onto Green Bay, accessible at low tides from Porthcurno or via a very steep scramble from above.

The footpath continues down onto Porthcurno beach, which as per was quite busy though the best views are from the ascent towards the Minack Theatre.

Porthcurno Beach

The stony steps up to the Minack Theatre are not for the faint hearted but are one of the few sets of steps that it is probably better to be going up than down, as you are less aware of the sheer drops you are climbing up!! Please note there is an easier walk up the lane if you don’t fancy it!

I have a great memory of sitting on these steps with a friend waiting for her husband who was running in the Classic Quarter Race from The Lizard to Land’s End, a gruelling 44 miles along the coastal path. We assumed we would see him and other runners ascend down the other side and have plenty of time to meet him at the car with water and snacks – hah not so he was by this point the front runner by some distance and suddenly just appeared up the steps – it was then our turn to run back to the car to get his water, so as not to delay his run. I’m pleased to say he still won and indeed broke the course record which he held onto for quite a few years – madness!

We continued along the coastal path to our final stop Porthchapel Cove at St Levan another stunning sandy beach which was fast disappearing under the incoming tide.

Not confident of our ability to safely get down and more importantly back up from this beach we settled midway down, enjoying the sun, solitude and view.

Porthchapel Beach

And Poppydog enjoyed a good wallow in amongst the rocks of the stream….

From here we made our way past St Levan’s Well into the little hamlet and back to Treen via a network of inland footpaths, oh yes and via this Anderson Shelter at the Porthcurno Museum, looking all autumnal …

A stunning 6 mile circular route and four more beaches to add to our list (some 850 so far!).

A fabulous afternoon on Cape Cornwall…..

A lovely sunny day and dare I say it, as the wind seems to have quietened down – warm!

We drove a few miles up the coast, through St Just to the NT car park at Cape Cornwall and wow what a fab view – pity there is no overnight camping allowed….

Definitely a room with a view….

Firstly we wandered up to the top….

The Heinz Monument (1864) created by the siting of the former Cape Cornwall mine chimney

With absolutely breathtaking views towards Land’s End, to the north and straight out to sea….

Shimmering seas towards Land’s End
Cool blue seas towards St Ives
Over the lookout station to….?

I could quite happily have sat up here and gazed out to sea all afternoon but Poppydog had other ideas so we wandered back down to take a closer look at the ruins of the medieval St Helen’s Chapel believed to have replaced the former 6th C church

Poppydog taking centre stage as per….

Room with a view

We continued our walk southwards past the stony beach of Priest’s Cove…..

And up a steep incline onto Cairn Gloose with stunning views back to Cape Cornwall.

Here there was a welcome flat cliff top walk for a bit before the footpath took us down to Porth Nanven.

A very stony beach, also sometimes referred to as Dinosaurs Egg Beach because of the unusual ovoid shape of the rocks.

Too rocky for Poppydog to have a runaround safely

Unfortunately, even though she is quite nimble, I decided that it wouldn’t be wise to let Poppydog have a runabout. Though we did clamber along the beach a bit and found concrete pipe covering running along the back of the beach enabling us to sit in the sun whilst we watched a couple of seals swimming off the nearby rocks.

Not a long walk but a good opportunity to stretch those leg muscles and get the heart rate up!

On the way back we were entranced by a display of pools of liquid gold dancing across the sea…


A stormy day down on Sennen…..

Well after a beautifully clear night, several shooting stars (yep we made a wish) and a clear sight of Mars (only knew this coz I saw it on FB) – this morning we couldn’t see a thing – we were completely shrouded in wet mizzly sea mist.

The mist lifted about lunchtime and even though there were some pretty heavy showers and a strong wind swirling around, we took the chance and headed off along the coastal path to Sennen.

The footpath took us through the Escalls Green Valley a lovely wild valley covered in marram grass and criss crossed with footpaths (a dog walkers paradise) and home to these pretty little cottages (fab place to stay though sadly all holiday cottages now)…

At the bottom of the valley we joined Whitesand Bay aka Sennen Cove beach – an absolute beauty even on a stormy day with the tide almost high…

Though there were quite a few people wandering along the main part of the beach, nearer Sennen Cove, this far end was pretty much deserted and so Poppydog could enjoy her freedom.

As for me – well just happy to throw a ball and enjoy the wind, crashing waves and the view….

As I had dried out from our earlier soaking, I decided that we would back up the valley and back to site before the next shower came along.

We shall return another day when the tide is further out and maybe the sun shining?

And we’re off again…. down to Sennen…..

At last the weather is on the mend, so without further ado we are packed up and on the road by 11. A quick stop at Sainsbury’s for provisions and fuel and we are soon enjoying the sun glittering on the sea across Mounts Bay. I had planned to park up at Marazion and take a walk along the beach but some do-gooding council has decided to pedestrianise the seafront where a nice strip of free parking was once available and you know how I hate paying for parking!

We arrived promptly at Sennen Cove CCC Site about a mile and a half shy of Sennen, near Land’s End Airport and were soon shown to our pitch with distant sea views.

After a slick (oh yes) set up we followed the footpath from site for about a mile until another short path led us from the cliff top to some steep steps down the Gwynver Beach…

What a stunning beach – beautiful chunky (like granulated sugar) cream sand leading into a turbulent white edged turquoise sea…

Though not by any means busy the beach was a bit small to let Poppydog have complete freedom but she can still have fun on her lead….

It really was quite beautiful and with the sun shining I really can’t think of a better way or place to spend an afternoon!

Oh yes and from here we could keep a beady eye on Longships Lighthouse…..

At low tides it is possible to walk from here along the beach to Sennen Cove which maybe we shall do one of these fine days. For now though it was time to climb up those stony stairs and return to site along the coastal path….

A big decision made….

With plenty of time to think during lockdown, spurred on by plenty of drives (and walks) along the country lanes down here in Cornwall, I have basically lost the nerve to continue towing! It has been coming for awhile and was part of the reason I stopped heading north at Glasgow, heading east instead to Edinburgh and continuing my travels back down south until being forced to make the epic (420 mile) journey towing all the way from Sandringham in Norfolk to home on the Lizard.

I am going to sell the car and caravan and buy a Camper – yes I really do believe we can live in the small space provided by a Camper, as each year on our return I have duly unpacked stuff that hasn’t actually seen the light of day on our travels.

My journey is evolving also, as at the outset I idealistically imagined ambling in a clockwise direction all the way around the coast of Britain. Whereas, in reality, I have broken my journey at various times (and places) to return home, visit my dad (my biggest fan) and attend family / friend events, as is real life.

So I feel confident that I no longer need to try and pack my whole life into the van as I will be back sooner or later! The fear of hitching and towing has never really left me and always results in a sleepless night and a very anxious journey. Also leaving the caravan in random places whilst I make these trips has not always been easy or cheap to organise.

So from here on forward I shall be living as a snail taking the essentials of life with me wherever I travel!

Freedombird Mark 3……