Coast

Saturday 10th October 2026 – a wet day in Sorrento….

/ freedombird / Leave a comment

Quite a bit of rain overnight and light rain throughout the morning and some pretty torrential downpours, however, we have a plan and so late morning we made our way the short distance to the train station just as the heavens opened….

and caught a very busy (standing room only) clanky old train into the heart of the gentile town of Sorrento….

A gap in the rain allowed us to wander the busy streets lined with eateries and soak up the the atmosphere….

Find a little respite from the crowds in the Cloisters of San Fransisco….

And walk down the quieter back alleys…

The sun came out right on cue for us to enjoy the amazing coastal views, spot the crusie ships in the bay, accounting for at least some of the visitors and the turquoise seas and the smidge of sand that is Spiaggia de San Fransisco…

After a bit of ferritting around we did also find the forgotten ‘Valley of the Ferns’ with its derelict old Mills which were cut off from the sea in 1866 when the main Piazza Tasso (first photo above) was built and closed down by the 1940’s because of rising humidity and industrial obsolescence….

Having had our fill of wandering around the town we headed back to the station and is still relatively early bought bus tickets to visit Positano. However at this point our luck ran out as the queue was quite shambolic with people jumping in where ever they felt like it, no actual pavement to stand out of the the way of arriving and reversing buses, Tilly having to be carried to prevent her getting trodden on or run over, no indication of when the next bus would arrive and to crown it all, a half and hour in the rain came – seriously!

We gave it another 15 minutes by which time it was nearly 4pm and we were both soaked and there was a return train just after four, so we hurried back to the station and luckily managed to get a seat on said train.

Slightly disappointed to have not made it to Positano but thankful to be out of the rain and in the warmth of the van by 5, we settled down for a nice cosy evening.

Today’s stats:

  • Miles walked – 7
  • Train / bus tickets (which I did get to use in Amalfi) – £8.99
  • O/N – £20

Thursday 8th October 2026 – another day in Sperlonga….

/ freedombird / Leave a comment

Well that was a night that was. Most of the evening we could see flashes of lightening and rumbles of thunder out to sea, nothing too dramatic until we had been in bed for a while and then around midnight the storm had rumbled in from the sea and was now immediately overhead and very loud. Poor Tilly was beside herself and there really was very little I could do to pacify her accept cuddle her in tight. The heavens also opened and the noise was such that neither of us could settle, so I did what any English person in this situation would do, put the light and kettle on sat it out – I think it was gone 3 by the time the thunder and lightening had moved off into the mountains and the rain eased enough for us to both get some sleep. Having originally planned to move on this morning. On waking it was still raining, not heavily but enough, so I made the executive decision to stay put and get another hour or so sleep before joining the day – which indeed we did.

By around lunchtime the weather did start to clear and so we set off for a walk, this time heading along the cycle path away from Sperlonga towards Lake Lungo….

How beautiful with the mountains in the background. At this point we joined the beach just capturing a sight of Spiaggia Di Capratica on the other side of the river…..

And distant views ahead as we turned back towards Sperlonga…..

Enjoying our walk along a fairly deserted beach, still damp from last nights deluge, we continued past the sight and into Sperlonga….

This time heading around the hill top village to wander along Spiaggia Di Levante for a while….

On our way back, once beyond the village, Tilly got some well deserved off lead time doing what she loves, chasing chunks of driftwood….

We also ventured back down to the beach a little later to see if the sun and clouds were going to give us a decent sunset – not really but still very beautiful….

More thunder and lightening tonight but overhead earlier so by bedtime it had passed on through – ah sleep 💤

Today’s stats:

  • Miles driven – 0
  • Miles walked – 6
  • Beaches – 3
  • O/N – £25.00

Wednesday 7th October 2026 – an unexpected gem in Sperlonga….

/ freedombird / Leave a comment

A few spots of rain during the night but bearing in mind rain was forecast for most of the day yesterday and again through the day today, we carry on being lucky! We are away by 10 and the journey was uneventful, travelling around the ring road of Rome was much better than I expected, less traffic and less mental!

As we head back towards the coast we are surrounded by olive groves and increasingly polytunnels (tomatoes) but as always it is good to get our first sight of the sea and by lunch time we are settled on our site for the night – Camper de Sperlonga on the edge of the coastal hilltop village of Sperlonga.

On site the olive harvest is very much underway and we watch fascinated for a while as they agitate the branches to shake the olives down onto the awaiting nets before heading across the road and onto the beach….

Spiaggia Di Sperlonga, what a beautiful long sweeping sandy beach, the waves are a little frisky and the mountains hold some fairly heavy clouds, but for us the sun is shining and the gentle breeze keeping the temperature just right for walking as we set off along the sand to Sperlonga…..

There are days where photos don’t seem to cut it but today the ‘money shots’ just kept coming as we climbed up to Torre Tuglia, looking back along the beach and up to the Old Town perched above and out to sea….

From Torre Tuglia, originally a 16thC coastal watchtower (though it has been destroyed on various invasions with the current version having been rebuilt in 2009) perched on the limestone headland we wandered up the many steps to the old village, pausing to capture more images (and catch our breath)…..

Looking down on the small marina and Spiaggia Grotta Di Tiberio stretched out to the north of the village….

The village itself – well just enchanting – I’m not sure what else to say….

Pretty murals, brightly hand painted tiles, impossibly narrow archways leading to yet more steps, bars and shops tucked away in little alleyways and incredible views – oh my what a delight….

Reluctantly making our way down we happen upon the little Chapel of San Rocco….

Finally down on the promenade we enjoy this spectacular view of the sea and sky….

I will say whilst I appreciate the wonders and historical value of yesterday’s outing in Rome – this was way more interesting, enjoyable and beautiful – in my opinion of course! Oh yes and no crowds, in fact not many people at all.

I have only planned to spend the one night here as the weather looks pretty shocking for tomorrow but if they keep getting it wrong?

Today’s stats:

  • Miles driven – 86
  • Miles walked – 5
  • Beaches – 2
  • Wow factor – 10/10
  • O/N – £25.93

Thursday 1st October 2026 – staying local and just being….

/ freedombird / Leave a comment

Lovely hot day again, I say lovely as we have no plans and can just alternate between the cool shaded van / outside and wandering along the track to the dog friendly beach for refreshing dips in the sea – what is not to like?

I have also taken some time to do a bit of planning ahead and tried to decide exactly where I want to visit. This coastline has been trickier to access /find places to stay than the Ligurian Coastline from back in May, compounded by the extremely hot temperatures we are having. I have been looking at the Italian Aires (Sostas) to give me a few more options but have found them nearly all to be in unshaded areas which in this heat will be unbearable. As such I have also found that we have had some lengthy drives through not very interesting landscapes – so am feeling more focus is required. A plan always helps.

Today’s stats:

  • Miles driven – 0
  • Miles walked –
  • O/N – £18.75

Wednesday 30th September 2026 – a walk to Rochette and Roccamare….

/ freedombird / Leave a comment

Today we opt to walk southwards along the cycle / footpath to take a closer look at the prominent Fort on the rocky headland that we can see along the far end of the beach. After about a mile we have to turn off the path and then cover another mile or so along the side of the road which isn’t very pleasant, though fortunately the road is not busy, to return to the coast. There actually isn’t any village here just a string of holiday parks which is a bit disappointing but Spiaggia di Rochette is a welcome sight….

Forte delle Rochette looks pretty impressive as we sit in the shade of some rocks at the waters edge to cool down….

Now that is what you call taking your work with you!!!! Strangely this stretch of coastline has been my first encounter with these beach traders in my travels around Europe. I cannot imagine how uncomfortable and soul destroying it must be just trudging up and down the beach all and everyday carrying your wares which must be heavy and most people don’t want….

Having not particularly enjoyed the walk here we opt to return via the beach which though tough walking and in the full sun is probably about half the distance….

About half way back on Spiaggia de Roccomare there are a number of bamboo roofed shelters (belonging to one of the holiday parks which is closed for the season) along the way for us to stop, sit, cool down and have a drink (as always I am armed with cold water for Tilly and a flask of coffee for me). We are in no rush….

A bit further along we have to leave the beach to cross a stream and that involves wandering through another deserted holiday parks which in the semi shade before rejoining the beach at Spiaggia Pineta di Roccomare….

Wow that was certainly a work out and a bit of recovery is required before taking a latish dip in the sea to complete our recovery before calling it a day.

Today’s stats:

  • Miles walked – 7
  • Beaches – 3
  • O/N – £18.75