Month: October 2026

Wednesday 14th October 2026 – moving across country to Matera….

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Leaving the coast again, this time we are heading inland to the unusual city of Matera. The journey is uneventful but noticeably the landscape changed from lush tree filled hilly terrain about two thirds of the way to arid hilly scrubland with hilltop villages scattered in the distance as indeed is Matera.

We parked up in Camper Matera, an Aire rather than a campsite but with probably the warmest welcome we have received anywhere in Italy and were presented with a fresh loaf of locally made sourdough bread – Pani di Matera. The outer crust was like a brick and with the cost of dentistry I didn’t risk it but the fleshy inner was delicious and satisfied an itch. The overnight cost also included a return shuttle to the centre of Matera and I booked us onto the next available trip later in the afternoon.

The short journey was somewhat entertaining as the driver (I assumed to be the owners father) didn’t speak a word of English but proceeded to chat to me (the only passenger) the whole journey, at one point we were pulled over by the local police for what I gathered to be some vehicle issue but my driver seemed to think it was something and nothing and appeared to be quite dismissive of the very serious policeman’s issues. Arriving in one piece the driver waved me roughly in the direction of the centre and disappeared back into the traffic! Hopefully to be seen again at the agreed pick up time.

Only a few minutes walk took us into the centre of the more modern part of town, with its beautiful ornate buildings and narrow pedestrianised bar and shop lined streets….

Just beyond these honey toned streets lie the main attraction the Sassi area of rock carved cave dwellings dating back to Palaeolithic times (9000 years ago) and considered to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world. It almost didn’t survive the 1950’s when poverty, malaria and lack of electricity or running water caused the Italian government to call it the ‘shame of Italy’ and rehouse it’s population by extending the city beyond the above historic area. However revitalisation started to improve the area and it was given UNESCO World Heritage status in 1993 and is now a major attraction with many properties being lived in or serving as bars / restaurants and shops….

The city is carved into the side of La Gravine gorge with many natural and man made caves and shelters visible on the other side of the gorge in the untamed Parco Della Murgia Materano….

Unlike the 150 rock cut cave churches that are dotted around the Sassi including Santa Maria de Idris carved into Monterrone the tallest limestone spur topped by the Crucifix the main Cathedral Basilica Di Matera was constructed as a focal point of the city in the 1200’s and appears to almost glow in the warm sunshine, long after the rest of the city is shrouded in shade….

We enjoyed the golden hour up by the Cathedral along with many others, finding our own little carved ledge to sit upon and bask, serenaded by a well played acoustic guitar, hoping for a spectacular sunset, instead we were treated to a soothing golden glow….

There were several other bronze ‘Tree of Life’ sculptures by Andrea Roggi that we had spotted around the new ‘Old Town’….

As the light faded and turned from dusk to night, the Sassi continued to shine – 9000 years old and proud….

As we returned to our meeting point and needed to kill a bit of time we wandered into one of the many little vending machine alcoves that are dotted around cities in Italy and were rather surprised to see gelatos for sale – how random….

A fabulous afternoon and what an interesting find.

Today’s stats:

  • Miles driven – 119
  • Miles walked – 7
  • O/N – £16.90

Tuesday 13th October 2026 – a trip along the Amalfi Coast….

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A lovely sunny day, not too warm so just right for what we have in mind. Having decided that co-ordinating the very infrequent bus service to the campsite was not going to work we ventured the short distance in the van into Salerno. Having selected a large car park by the station as suitable for daytime camper parking on Park4Night I was fairly confident, even when confronted with the chaos that ensued once we arrived in Salerno.

However this confidence was short lived as we approached said carpark and I could see that it was pretty chocablock and even though we are only 6m most car parking spaces are not doable unless there is space behind to overhang a bit. I didn’t risk it and carried on towards the seafront in search of something more suitable. Unfortunately everywhere was heaving with double parking an interesting feature of italian parking, on the premise that by sticking your hazard lights on all will be fine!

At a complete loss and in fact just looking for somewhere to pull over and research alternatives when I spied a motorhome Aire and pulled in on the off chance. It was next to and run by a vehicle recovery yard and they were quite happy for my to park in the secure area for the daily charge of 10 euros (this was actually the overnight price which was fair and I would have stayed if I were not already paying for my camping spot up the road).

By now time was running a little tight for us to catch the 11.40 ferry and so we set off at a pace to Piazza Concordia, the ferry terminal, passing the ruins of Salerno castle and enjoying views back across the city from the marina….

We made it just as the ferry was boarding and enjoyed the coastal journey passing the picturesque villages of Vietri sul Mare, with it’s hilltop Cross, Cetara and hillside Ravello….

Before arriving at our destination – Amalfi….

The village was very busy on this fine sunny day and firstly we walked away from the crowds to get a coastal view of Tovere San Pietro, take in the small beach and look back across the village over the marina….

Stealing our selves for the hustle and bustle we ventured into the village, through the main Piazza and up the narrow streets to Amalfi Cathedral….

As is often the case, by veering away from the main streets and choosing to wander along the back streets and alleys, we can get more of a feel of the place without the company of the crowds….

Having our fill, we headed back down to the coast at the opposite end of the village, admired the first (of many as it transpires) ‘Tree of Life’ bronze sculpture overlooking the crystal clear Amalfi waters and views back across the village….

Walking roadside along the very narrow and twisty road that feeds all the villages on this coast and one that I would not wish to drive in any form of vehicle unless guaranteed a right of way – albeit and probably part of the problem, as it is used by buses and coaches as well as cars and strings of motorcyclists and cyclists alike. A short time later the footpath left the road and we started our descent into Altrani….

This village is much smaller and quieter than it’s neighbour and we spent a while mooching around the streets and sitting on the sea front enjoying the sun and just watching the world go by and being….

Rather than dice with death on the roadside and progress any further we opted to use the pedestrian tunnel which connects Altrani and Amalfi and head back to the port….

We toyed with the idea of continuing further along the coast to attempt to visit Positano but the next ferry wasn’t until after 4 and the bus queues were horrendous so for us, Positano will remain unvisited! Instead for an alternative perspective we opted to catch the bus back to Salerno and were lucky enough to get one of the last seats using the bus ticket that we had purchased in Sorrento.

The bus journey was interesting as it crawled its way stopping and starting to allow traffic to pass along the narrow road but we got some lovely glimpses of many of the other villages – Minori, Maiori and it’s sea fort, Erchie with it’s beach and sea fort….

And extensive views of the much larger Vietri sul Mare and coastal Salerno beyond….

The mile or so walk back to the van was taken at a much more leisurely pace along the sea front in Salerno and our return journey was much more straight forward with us being back and settled on site in time to catch the rather spectacular sunset across the bay to the Amalfi coast where we have spent the day….

At the risk of sounding controversial and though we enjoyed our visit to the Amalfi Coast, I think Cinque Terre was prettier and more dramatic.

Today’s stats:

  • Miles driven – 18
  • Miles walked – 6
  • Beaches – 3
  • Car park – £8.47
  • Ferry – £14.40
  • O/N – £21.00

Monday 12th October 2026 – a quiet day just mooching…

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The weather forecast was for a wet day, so even though it was wrong and apart from a few spots here and there it was fine, we had rather got used to the idea of a quiet day.

Early afternoon though we were both ready for a walk and set off in the direction of the nearest resort (heading back towards Salerno). As the sea is still a bit choppy and there is very little wet sand to walk on we chose to walk along the footpath. I will say it was not the prettiest walk as on our left is a series of closed either seasonally or permanently cafes and bars, obscuring our view of the sea and beach and to our right is the main road, not massively busy but not attractive either!

I will also at this point mention the fact that I am rather shocked and very disappointed with the amount of roadside rubbish that is in my opinion a real blight on this journey through Italy. The main roads are just littered all the way along and most lay-bys have piles of sacks of rubbish in them such that a few times where I have wanted to pull in to take a scenic photo, I just haven’t. Why? and what a real shame.

We walked as far as Pontecagnano with more derelict buildings and litter before joining the beach Spiaggia del Sud….

And choosing to walk back along the beach, much to Tilly’s disgust as it is significantly more appealing than the alternative.

The beach at the campsite, Spiaggia di Magazzano was pretty empty so I did encourage Tilly to have a bit of a play, before a big white dog appeared in the distance and she decided enough was enough!….

The highlight of our day was being treated to this stunning sunset….

Today’s stats:

  • Miles walked – 4
  • Beaches – 2
  • O/N – £21.00

Sunday 11th October 2026 – moving away from the city and further down the Amalfi coast to Salerno….

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A much better day with plenty of warm sunshine as we left Pompeii and the hustle and bustle of neighbouring Napoli behind and headed a little further down to the coast to just south of Salerno.

The drive was a little tedious as the non toll route took us through a string of outlying suburbs, full of Sunday drivers reversing in and out without a care in the world, stopping starting and completing U-turns, pedestrians stepping out without looking and clusters of cyclists thrown into the mix. We then had to venture up into the hills with narrow winding roads, more cyclists and randomly parked cars, so it took us several hours to complete a relatively short journey!

Hey ho though, we arrived in one piece and were soon settled at Camping Lido di Salerno just a few short steps from a lovely sandy beach….

Without further ado we set off to explore our new surroundings and embrace the warmth of the sun (now down to an acceptable 22-25 degrees) and cool gentle breeze.

Not a very deep beach so Tilly was not a great fan as the waves were crashing a little to fiercely for her!….

A breath of fresh air (literally) after the last couple of days on the edge of a city.

Today’s stats:

  • Miles driven – 37
  • Miles walked – 4
  • Beaches – 1
  • O/N – £21.45

Saturday 10th October 2026 – a wet day in Sorrento….

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Quite a bit of rain overnight and light rain throughout the morning and some pretty torrential downpours, however, we have a plan and so late morning we made our way the short distance to the train station just as the heavens opened….

and caught a very busy (standing room only) clanky old train into the heart of the gentile town of Sorrento….

A gap in the rain allowed us to wander the busy streets lined with eateries and soak up the the atmosphere….

Find a little respite from the crowds in the Cloisters of San Fransisco….

And walk down the quieter back alleys…

The sun came out right on cue for us to enjoy the amazing coastal views, spot the crusie ships in the bay, accounting for at least some of the visitors and the turquoise seas and the smidge of sand that is Spiaggia de San Fransisco…

After a bit of ferritting around we did also find the forgotten ‘Valley of the Ferns’ with its derelict old Mills which were cut off from the sea in 1866 when the main Piazza Tasso (first photo above) was built and closed down by the 1940’s because of rising humidity and industrial obsolescence….

Having had our fill of wandering around the town we headed back to the station and is still relatively early bought bus tickets to visit Positano. However at this point our luck ran out as the queue was quite shambolic with people jumping in where ever they felt like it, no actual pavement to stand out of the the way of arriving and reversing buses, Tilly having to be carried to prevent her getting trodden on or run over, no indication of when the next bus would arrive and to crown it all, a half and hour in the rain came – seriously!

We gave it another 15 minutes by which time it was nearly 4pm and we were both soaked and there was a return train just after four, so we hurried back to the station and luckily managed to get a seat on said train.

Slightly disappointed to have not made it to Positano but thankful to be out of the rain and in the warmth of the van by 5, we settled down for a nice cosy evening.

Today’s stats:

  • Miles walked – 7
  • Train / bus tickets (which I did get to use in Amalfi) – £8.99
  • O/N – £20