From Higher Tregiffian to Nanjulian….

From where to where you ask? Ok so from the campsite to a little spot a few miles up the coast. We don’t leave the site until early afternoon as it keeps on spotting with rain but as it appears to be brightening up, we decide to complete the section of coastal path from Gwynver northwards to Porth Nanven (Dinosaur Eggs Beach).

Firstly we wander across the fields and down the steps to Gwynver Beach which is surprisingly busy with surfers (all I can say is they must be mad keen to lumber their boards all the way down and of course back up again to this fab beach).

It is too busy for Poppydog to ‘off road’ but she does still get the chance for a runaround and essentially a splash about in a rock pool….

At the north end of the beach we pick up the coastal path which ambles along just above the shoreline over rocks and through heather strewn grassland. I would imagine this is an even prettier walk during the early summer and sprinkled with wild flowers.

The sun occasionally pops out to join us and we meet the odd walker but mostly we have the rough path to our selves.

In the distance we can see Cape Cornwall and decide to cut inland from the next valley rather than continue all the way to Porth Nanven as we certainly seem to have arrived at Dinosaur egg country!!

Maen Dower

At the bottom of the valley is a nice stream for Poppydog to wallow in for a bit and then we sat just above the shoreline just enjoying the sun for a while, before venturing up the valley to Nanjulian.

Our journey home took us through the tiny hamlet of Nanjulian, past the little airstrip of Land’s End Airport and finally over farmland to site – a nice 6.5 mile circular walk.

From Sennen around Land’s End to Nanjizal…..

A little bit more cloud around today but still a lovely day for a walk. We parked the van at the top of Sennen in a lay-by and wandered down onto the beach – it really is as beautiful as it looks….

Looking towards Cape Cornwall
And away to the south

The village, though now sprawling way up the hill with some rather fabulous glass studded houses is still essentially a cluster of higgledy piggledy small whitewashed terraced cottages, though sadly many of them now appear to be holiday lets. The small sandy harbour behind the newish Lifeboat Station is testament to a small thriving fishing fleet.

We then began to climb up out of the village, along the coastal path towards Land’s End.

Up on the top the footpath is quite wide and certainly well used, though at this time of year you can still enjoy the feeling of being the only soul out there and of course the coastline here is ruggedly beautiful.

As ever Land’s End itself was milling with people so we didn’t linger, just long enough to watch a pod of dolphins dancing around the bay (not close enough to take a decent photo) and to take this photo to prove we have been!

And then moved along to enjoy the spectacular Armed Knight natural arch with Longships Lighthouse in the distance.

Poppydog for once is in the right place at the right time!

Much quieter now the coastal path continues to meander along the cliff top.

After a mile or so and around another headland we get our first distant glimpse of Nanjizal or Mill Bay….

Too pretty to miss…

A series of caves in the making….

The tide is rapidly coming in but you can still imagine what this stunning cove would be like on a hot summers day with the tide out – miles from anywhere but probably rarely empty.

Well worth the walk….

From here we followed a steep path up out of the valley and a series of farmland footpaths back to where we had left the van in Sennen a good 7 mile circular walk.

And a cheeky poser shot in Sennen upper car park on our way back to site.

Living the dream….

A fouro (one more than a trio!!) of stunning beaches…

Another lovely sunny day, a bit more cloud about but less breeze so all in all a win. Today we made our way to Treen where there is a parking field (£2 all day), you can also wild camp in there with fab sea views, not sure of charge though, a couple of fields away from the cliff top so definite sea views and a busy looking pub in the village a short amble down the hill.

Today though, we take the footpath to Logan Rock a big lump of rock amidst beautiful turquoise seas.

Logan Rock

From here we are heading west towards Land’s End along Treen cliffs and soon have a fabulous birds eye view of this stunning beach….

Pedn Vounder Cove

What an absolute beauty even as the tide is quickly on it’s way in. Beach access is quite tricky with a very steep scramble down and so we continued our way along the coastal path. This stretch of the path is quite narrow but I found that everyone I met was considerate and socially distanced aware, not that it was any hardship to find a little gap and admire the view to allow others to pass safely.

A bit further along we encountered this pyramid demarking the original end of the transatlantic cable, more information about which is available in the Telegraph Museum a bit further along in Porthcurno.

Soon we had our first glimpse of Green Bay and Porthcurno beach and the Minnack Theatre beyond….

Then a closer look down onto Green Bay, accessible at low tides from Porthcurno or via a very steep scramble from above.

The footpath continues down onto Porthcurno beach, which as per was quite busy though the best views are from the ascent towards the Minack Theatre.

Porthcurno Beach

The stony steps up to the Minack Theatre are not for the faint hearted but are one of the few sets of steps that it is probably better to be going up than down, as you are less aware of the sheer drops you are climbing up!! Please note there is an easier walk up the lane if you don’t fancy it!

I have a great memory of sitting on these steps with a friend waiting for her husband who was running in the Classic Quarter Race from The Lizard to Land’s End, a gruelling 44 miles along the coastal path. We assumed we would see him and other runners ascend down the other side and have plenty of time to meet him at the car with water and snacks – hah not so he was by this point the front runner by some distance and suddenly just appeared up the steps – it was then our turn to run back to the car to get his water, so as not to delay his run. I’m pleased to say he still won and indeed broke the course record which he held onto for quite a few years – madness!

We continued along the coastal path to our final stop Porthchapel Cove at St Levan another stunning sandy beach which was fast disappearing under the incoming tide.

Not confident of our ability to safely get down and more importantly back up from this beach we settled midway down, enjoying the sun, solitude and view.

Porthchapel Beach

And Poppydog enjoyed a good wallow in amongst the rocks of the stream….

From here we made our way past St Levan’s Well into the little hamlet and back to Treen via a network of inland footpaths, oh yes and via this Anderson Shelter at the Porthcurno Museum, looking all autumnal …

A stunning 6 mile circular route and four more beaches to add to our list (some 850 so far!).

A fabulous afternoon on Cape Cornwall…..

A lovely sunny day and dare I say it, as the wind seems to have quietened down – warm!

We drove a few miles up the coast, through St Just to the NT car park at Cape Cornwall and wow what a fab view – pity there is no overnight camping allowed….

Definitely a room with a view….

Firstly we wandered up to the top….

The Heinz Monument (1864) created by the siting of the former Cape Cornwall mine chimney

With absolutely breathtaking views towards Land’s End, to the north and straight out to sea….

Shimmering seas towards Land’s End
Cool blue seas towards St Ives
Over the lookout station to….?

I could quite happily have sat up here and gazed out to sea all afternoon but Poppydog had other ideas so we wandered back down to take a closer look at the ruins of the medieval St Helen’s Chapel believed to have replaced the former 6th C church

Poppydog taking centre stage as per….

Room with a view

We continued our walk southwards past the stony beach of Priest’s Cove…..

And up a steep incline onto Cairn Gloose with stunning views back to Cape Cornwall.

Here there was a welcome flat cliff top walk for a bit before the footpath took us down to Porth Nanven.

A very stony beach, also sometimes referred to as Dinosaurs Egg Beach because of the unusual ovoid shape of the rocks.

Too rocky for Poppydog to have a runaround safely

Unfortunately, even though she is quite nimble, I decided that it wouldn’t be wise to let Poppydog have a runabout. Though we did clamber along the beach a bit and found concrete pipe covering running along the back of the beach enabling us to sit in the sun whilst we watched a couple of seals swimming off the nearby rocks.

Not a long walk but a good opportunity to stretch those leg muscles and get the heart rate up!

On the way back we were entranced by a display of pools of liquid gold dancing across the sea…


A stormy day down on Sennen…..

Well after a beautifully clear night, several shooting stars (yep we made a wish) and a clear sight of Mars (only knew this coz I saw it on FB) – this morning we couldn’t see a thing – we were completely shrouded in wet mizzly sea mist.

The mist lifted about lunchtime and even though there were some pretty heavy showers and a strong wind swirling around, we took the chance and headed off along the coastal path to Sennen.

The footpath took us through the Escalls Green Valley a lovely wild valley covered in marram grass and criss crossed with footpaths (a dog walkers paradise) and home to these pretty little cottages (fab place to stay though sadly all holiday cottages now)…

At the bottom of the valley we joined Whitesand Bay aka Sennen Cove beach – an absolute beauty even on a stormy day with the tide almost high…

Though there were quite a few people wandering along the main part of the beach, nearer Sennen Cove, this far end was pretty much deserted and so Poppydog could enjoy her freedom.

As for me – well just happy to throw a ball and enjoy the wind, crashing waves and the view….

As I had dried out from our earlier soaking, I decided that we would back up the valley and back to site before the next shower came along.

We shall return another day when the tide is further out and maybe the sun shining?